A resist-dyeing technique applied to the thread itself before weaving, so the pattern only fully resolves once the fabric is on the loom — practiced in distinct regional forms across the country.
ओडिशा, तेलंगाना, गुजरात · Odisha, Telangana, Gujarat
Ikat dyers bind sections of thread to resist dye before weaving begins, a process repeated across multiple colors, meaning the pattern must be precisely calculated in advance since it cannot be corrected once weaving starts. Odisha's Sambalpuri ikat, Telangana's Pochampally ikat, and Gujarat's double-ikat Patola, woven with both warp and weft threads pre-dyed, a technique found in very few places worldwide, are the country's three best-known regional forms.
Patola in particular is prized for its difficulty and cost, traditionally woven by a small number of families in Patan, Gujarat, with a single sari sometimes taking six months to a year to complete.